Textile; jacket. Sumatra
Kauer Bengkulu Indonesia Sumatra
Unmarried woman's jacket for ceremonial occasions. From the Kauer people of Lampung Province. The Kauer inhabit the mountainous west coast of Sumatra in southern Bengkulu Province, across the border from Lampung Province [see Gittinger 1972:Map 3]. They do not live in the immediate vicinity of Lampung Bay proper, as is implied in the original accession information. See Gittinger 1979:85 for an illustration of the wearing of this style of jacket. Tailored from a single rectangular cloth. The basic fabric is handspun, handwoven cotton. The back panel is decorated with supplementary weft at the time of weaving. Embroidery and applique are added to the cloth after weaving is completed. The applied elements include mirror pieces called "cermuk" and ground nassa shell beads. The cloth is then cut and sewn to form the jacket. See Gittinger 1979:87 for an illustration of an entire cloth before it is cut to make the jacket.
BIBLIOGRAPHY: Gittinger, Mattiebelle. 1979. SPLENDID SYMBOLS: TEXTILES AND TRADITIONS IN INDONESIA. Washington D.C., The Textile Museum. Gittinger, Mattiebelle. 1972. A STUDY OF THE SHIP CLOTHS OF SUMATRA: THEIR DESIGN AND USAGE. Ph.D. Dissertation, Columbia University.
University of California, Los Angeles. Fowler Museum of Cultural History
handwoven supplementary weft sewn embroidered appliqued cotton nassa shell mirror "cermuk" metallic thread silk 33.0 cm by 147.3 cm
Fowler museum of Cultural History